Resin coasters with dried flowers and glitter
Turn pressed botanicals, fine glitter and clear resin into a coordinated set of decorative coasters. The basic pour is approachable for beginners, but thoughtful choices of resin, mould and arrangement determine whether the finished pieces look delicate, bold or keepsake-worthy. Clear epoxy creates a deep, glass-like body, while UV resin cures quickly and works best in thinner layers.
Plan the whole set before mixing your first cup. Choose a consistent diameter, decide on a colour story and check that your dried flowers will fit without floating or overcrowding the surface. Measuring in millilitres and grams, as Australian craft recipes commonly do, also reduces guesswork and makes each pour repeatable.
Compare resin types and plan quantities
Compare the main resin types before buying moulds. Handling times vary between brands, so treat the figures below as broad guides and follow the label on your chosen product.
| Resin type | Typical handling | Finished result | Strongest use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-part epoxy | 20–30 minutes to mix; 24–48 hours to cure | Deep clarity and glass-like depth | Flower-heavy pours and larger moulds |
| UV resin | 5–10 minutes per cured layer | Fast cure with a high-shine finish | Small batches and layered designs |
| Acrylic craft resin | 10–20 minutes before handling | Tinted or translucent, usually softer | Simple pours and opaque colour effects |
Most makers choose two-part epoxy for the strongest visual result. Stir the resin and hardener thoroughly, scrape the sides and base of the cup, and pour while it is still clear rather than milky. UV resin suits makers who want to work in short sessions, while acrylic resin is forgiving for beginners and colourful experiments.
Calculate quantities from the mould dimensions rather than guessing from bottle size. An 80-millimetre coaster filled to about 8 millimetres deep holds roughly 40 millilitres, so four pieces need a little more than 160 millilitres to allow for flowers and waste. Check that every mould has matching capacity.
Prepare a safe Australian workspace
Resin deserves a properly prepared workspace rather than a casual kitchen bench. Work outdoors or with excellent ventilation, wear nitrile gloves and splash goggles, cover the surface, and keep food and children away. Follow the manufacturer’s safety data sheet. Never use a hair dryer or open flame near resin, and remember that a thick epoxy pour can become dangerously warm.
If you are making the set on a Sunday arvo, gather every item first: moulds, cups, sticks, gloves, goggles, a level board, paper, a drop sheet and plenty of curing space. Australian makers can find silicone moulds and basic supplies at Bunnings or craft stores such as Riot Art & Craft, with prices normally shown in Australian dollars. Start early if the afternoon is hot, because direct sun and warm rooms can slow curing and soften the surface.
Condition flowers and choose glitter
Press flowers flat under a heavy book until every petal is dry and even. Small Australian paper daisies, dried waxflowers and delicate leaves make attractive inclusions, but remove stems, insects and any brittle fragments. Very porous petals can soak up resin, cloud the surrounding area or float instead of staying visible, so seal them first with a thin clear acrylic finish or a light coat of the same resin you are using.
Choose glitter according to the effect you want. Fine holographic dust gives a subtle shimmer, while chunky glitter creates sparkle but can dominate small flowers and settle unevenly. Test a few colours on spare silicone before committing; some metallics turn warm under clear epoxy, and strongly tinted pigment can make the depth look muddy.
Mix, pour, and place botanicals
Measure the resin and hardener in separate dry cups using the exact ratio stated by the manufacturer. Add the hardener and mix slowly for one to two minutes, scraping under the bottom, until the streaks disappear. Fast stirring folds in air and creates a frosted surface, so work methodically and pour from a corner of the cup.
Pour a shallow base into each clean mould, leaving room for the flowers and a top seal. Tap the mould gently on the bench to release bubbles, then let the base settle until its skin begins to form. Use tweezers or a wooden stick to position the petals. Pressing the botanicals too deeply can trap them below the surface and waste clear resin.
Add a second small pour at around a 45-degree angle to chase bubbles toward the edge, then guide any stray bubble with a clean toothpick while the resin is fluid. Keep inclusions moving until the pour reaches its final thickness; resin becomes difficult to stir as it thickens, and late additions often leave visible trails. Leave the mould undisturbed in a dust-safe place until it reaches the cure stage described on the label.
Cure, demould, and finish
Epoxy coasters generally need at least 24 hours before demoulding, and deeper pours may need 48 hours or longer. UV resin must be cured fully under the correct lamp, usually layer by layer; a surface that feels dry can still be incompletely set below. Test a small edge with a fingernail before easing the coaster away, and never force a sticky piece.
Wash the cured piece in warm water, sand any rough edge with fine grit and wipe it clean. A thin topcoat can restore a crisp shine, but it must be mixed and cured with the same care as the original pour. Attach a cork or felt pad with suitable craft adhesive, turning the coaster into a practical base that protects furniture and reduces scratches.
Use shortcuts and design variations
A calm setup and a few consistent habits prevent most disasters. These shortcuts suit a first batch, while the design choices work equally well for a small gift set.
Pouring shortcuts
- Mix in a tall, straight-sided cup; a flat base helps it settle and a narrow shape reduces splashing.
- Stand the mould on a spirit level, checking it from both directions before pouring.
- Use a pipette or small jug to place resin in thin, controlled ribbons.
- Warm the components in their sealed cups in lukewarm water for a minute or two; never heat them directly.
Design directions
- Arrange one bloom in each coaster with the same filler flowers for a coordinated quartet.
- Create a botanical border, leaving the centre clear for a cup or glass.
- Build an opaque colour base, then layer a clear botanical design over it.
- Repeat one native flower across each coaster, varying only the background colour.
Keep each design readable rather than packing every surface with inclusions. Clear space gives the eye somewhere to rest, while repeated colours tie the pieces together.
Care, gifting, and display
Treat finished coasters as decorative pieces rather than washable serving surfaces. Wipe them with a soft damp cloth, avoid abrasive cleaners, and keep them away from hot mugs, oven heat and the dishwasher. Strong Australian sunlight can gradually amber epoxy, and summer heat may soften a thin cure, so display them indoors or on a shaded verandah rather than in direct afternoon sun.
At weekend craft markets in Melbourne, Sydney and other Australian cities, a coordinated set often attracts more attention than mixed singles because the pieces look like a collection. Package each coaster in a small recycled kraft box with tissue paper and a written care note. For a companion gift, adding personalised metal tags to plain boxes gives the presentation a crafted finish without changing the coasters themselves, and the same useful stamping method can label other handmade gifts.